"Camp fires are the..."

"...TV of the backcountry."
-Trail wisdom

August 4, 2001

Left Herman Melville Shelter and did a "short" day of around 14 miles so I can arrive at N. Adams for the above [all you can eat pizza lunch].

I was really pushing to get to Seth Warner [Shelter] before the rain hit.  I hit the road which is 3/10 mile before the shelter.

Seth Warner Shelter (from link)

When I got there, I found trail magic.  (like I did on this day as well)

I considered whether it was better to be dry or to eat food for one moment in time, and chose food.

I had a large chocolate chip cookie and the last can of Coke.  I guzzled it and belched my way all the way here [the shelter] before the rain hit.  Yay!

When I got to the shelter (along with Lemming shortly afterwards), we decided to quickly prepare a fire with the dry wood around the shelter before the rain came, and cover it with a plastic.  We did so, and sat in the shelter while the rain hit.  A good handful of other hikers came to the shelter during the rain, all planning on staying the night.  Many of the wet and sodden hikers bemoaned the fact that we would not be able to have a fire.  When the rain let up, Lemming and I dramatically lifted the plastic to reveal the dry kindling for a fire, and proceeded to light it.  Even better, a pair of hikers produced marshmallows, chocolate, and graham crackers to make Smores!

I also encountered the end of the Long Trail, as I was starting to exit Vermont and enter Massachusetts.

My apologies for the horrible flash glare:

Beginning or end of the Long Trail, depending on which way you hike it

My first day in Massachusetts would certainly be unique for my AT days...

"Ideas are like pizza dough,..."

"...made to be tossed around."
-Anna Quindlen

August 3, 2001

I got caught in a thunderstorm.  It was great!

It brought me back to Baldplate and Speck Mountains in Maine and Mt. Moriah in NH.

It washed me off a bit too.

There are four LT [Long Trail] kids here.  They gave me some Portable Aqua (iodine) so I don't need to go into Bennington.

beautiful Vermont countryside

I think I'll go 18.2 miles tomorrow so I can get into N. Adams [Massachusetts] Sunday afternoon for the All You Can Eat pizza lunch at Pizza Hut.

Alas, I would not make the Pizza Hut in time...

"It was a clear day, with a brisk breeze blowing..."

"...North and south, sharp peaks etched the horizon.  I felt as if atop the world, wih a sort of planetary feeling.  I seemed to perceive peaks far southward, hidden by old Earth's curvature.  Would a footpath some day reach them from where I was then perched?  Little did I dream..."
-Benton MacKaye, relating his climb to the summit of Stratton Mountain, VT, summer of 1900

August 2, 2001

On my fiftieth day I have done my first 10 by 10 and 12 by 12 (10 miles by 10 am and 12 miles by 12 noon).

Actually, 13.7 miles to Stratton Mountain by noon.

Stratton Pond at the bottom of Stratton Mountain

Salamander in Stratton Pond

Stratton is where [Benton] MacKaye supposedly thought of the AT.

Up on top of Stratton Mountain is an old fire tower.  I climbed up top to get a good view around and a picture looking back down at the ground:

The fire tower top is original 1950's.

Today, I did my first over 20-mile day, 21.1 miles.  I feel pretty good too.

I met this guy from Virginia named "Dig" coming off Stratton.  He's the only other Virginian I've met.  I told him how hungry I was today and he gave me a Snickers!

That Snickers was very encouraging...I can't explain well enough how valuable a Snicker bar is on the Appalachian Trail.  Considering supply and demand, it has to be close to the value of a bar of gold!

"The whole forest was peopled with frightful sounds..."

"...-the creaking of the trees, the howling of wild beasts, and the yell of Indians."
-Nathaniel Hawthorne

August 1, 2001

Over Baker, Peru, Bromley.

Picture from top of Bromley Mountain

So, one of the interesting parts about living in the woods for several months is getting used to new sounds.

This evening, I camped down on the top of a random hill in the midst of the forest.  All alone, I settled into my tent at dusk, read my Bible some, and laid down to sleep.

And then I heard a breathy, growl (sounds like this) emanate from the nearby woods.  It immediately sent chills down my spine and I pictured some wild bobcat about to tear my tent and myself inside into shreds.

But nothing happened.

It took awhile to settle down, and awhile longer in the woods before I saw a scared deer make the same noise (see "wheeze" sound at this website).  Apparently, my imagined bobcat was merely a doe.

I've heard the noise from deer since, and it is still unnerving, but not so scary when you know it comes from a prey instead of a predator.

Getting to know the forest sounds...

"A pile of rocks ceases to be rock..."

"...when somebody contemplates it with the idea of a cathedral in mind."
-Antoine de Saint-Exupery

July 31, 2001

Stayed at Otter Creek Campground in Danby, VT.

Passed several neat places today.  This bridge across the Clarendon Gorge looks scary (and apparently it really is).

Bridge across Clarendon Gorge

Later, I came upon this pile of rocks stacked one upon another:

Rock statues near White Cliffs

The picture doesn't quite express how detailed the statues were, and how many hours upon hours it must have taken to build it all.

Danby, VT

I had a maildrop at the Post Office in Danby, Vermont (the plan was to be there on July 29th).  By the time I got there, I didn't feel like hiking back out to the trail so I stayed in a nice little campground called Otter Creek Campground.

"May your days be many and your troubles be few..."

"...May all God's blessings descend upon you.
May peace be within you.
May your heart be strong.
May you find what you're seeking wherever you roam."
-Irish blessing

July 30, 2001

To Killington and beyond.

Got a free Gondola ride down Killington and back up!

AT hikers get a free ride down and up the Gondola on Killington

Probably the reason AT Hikers get a free ride down the Gondola is because there is a store at the bottom waiting to sell food to hungry hikers!

Today was a nice day.

I got a great view on top of Killington.

On top of Killington Mountain

I got 2 chocolate milks and a Crush [in the store at the bottom of the Gondola ride]  I got a free ride down the Gondola (& back up).  

I got to see wonder in a child's eyes as I told him about hiking the AT.

There was a kid and his grandfather on top of Killington.  After I described thruhiking, the kid got that look meaning he would probably hike the AT someday.  Just like that boy scout troop.

I got Trail Magic - Dr. Thunder in a brook.

I built a good campfire, and I'm staying in a nice little shelter with free lollipops, bunks, and a window.

Cooper Lodge (link)

Thank you, God, for these blessings.

"Ireland, thou friend of my country..."

"...in my country's most friendless days, much injured, much enduring land, accept this poor tribute from one who esteems thy worth, and mourns thy desolation."
-George Washington, speaking of Ireland's support for America during the revolution.

July 29, 2001


The Appalachian Trail met up with the Long Trail today:

Northern conjunction of Long Trail and Appalachian Trail

[Took the] Sherburne Pass Trail (historic AT) to the Inn at the Long Trail.

The Inn is incredibly Irish, and very hosting to Thru Hikers (we probably bring them a lot of business).

We all filled up, some of us drinking milk, others drank Guinness in the form of a "black and tan" where they made a clover in the foam when they poured in the Guinness.

They let us stay the night in the field across the street:

Camped across from the Inn at the Long Trail (mine is the middle tent).

In order to do all this, we took the Sherburne Pass Trail as opposed to the actual Appalachian Trail because the Sherburne goes right by the Inn.  The Sherburne used to be the original path of the Appalachian Trail before they moved the AT to the west side of Pico Mountain:

Link

"Get hot water! Get some disinfectant!..."

"...Get some iodine!"
-Lucy in Charlie Brown Christmas

July 28, 2001

Today, the mission is to find some way to make water drinkable.  So, I turned off of the Trail and down Stage Road...

I did the city loop.  I went to Teago General Store and they had no iodine.  I went to Rosewood Inn for help and ended up doing this huge loop back to where I was earlier that day.

I was stymied.

I walked back to the General Store and hitched to Woodstock where I got Portable Aqua.

Portable Aqua are iodine tablets to treat water.  Although this is the tried and true way that water has been treated over years (common military method), most North Americans consume too much iodine as it is.  It is only a temporary solution.

Since I was stressed over all this...

Also, a Ben & Jerry's smoothie.

I then hitchhiked back to the Trail and...

I went to Winturri [shelter] and saw Savage.  He said P's, etc. (Lemming) were all at the Lookout, a cabin on top of this hill.  That's where we all are now.

Sunset from the Lookout Cabin: a beautiful end to a long day

"It is wise to bring some water,..."

"...when one goes out to look for water."
-Arab Proverb

July 27, 2001

I was too upset to write because my water filter is messed up.  I went 14 miles to Thistle Hill Shelter with P's [Peanut and Panama Red] and Savage.

I started the Trail with a water filter similar to the one shown here:

Link

These water filters work by the hiker manually pumping water through a carbon cylinder in order to separate out everything you don't want to drink.

After about 2.5 gallons you need to take the filter out and scrub it, or the buildup of dirt and junk will start to clog it.  Unfortunately, with the drought that was going on, the water sources along the AT had less and less water and more and more dirt, meaning a lot of wear and tear on the filters.

Mine had enough.  Some of the other hikers pumped some water for me.

Tomorrow, I would solve this problem.

"The radio craze..."

"...will die out in time."
-Thomas Edison, American inventor, 1922

July 26, 2001

Zero day #3!

I'm taking a bus to West Lebanon to the Radio Shack.  I got a 1.4 oz. radio.

I still have this lovely radio.

This was a very fun trip back in civilization for me.

 First, I bought the little radio above, which would provide much entertainment for me on the lonely stretches of the Trail when all of us Southbounders spread out along the mid-Atlantic states.  It was the radio upon which I first heard about the 9-11 attacks.  I also listened to Virginia's governor debates on it so I knew how to absentee vote.  And many nights I would lay in my sleeping bag after sunset listening to local news or tunes.

 Second, I went to McDonald's and ordered ten cheeseburgers.  I received quite a few funny looks as I sat down with a pyramid of cheeseburgers in front of me listening to my newly-purchased radio.  Ten cheeseburgers and a large soda - and I wasn't full - proof of my new Trail metabolism.

"Some communities experienced record dryness..."

"..., including the driest April-July on record at Burlington, Vermont.  In northern Vermont and western and northern New York, the dry conditions of the last several months have begun to reduce streamflows, stress vegetation, and prompt water restrictions in some communities."
-NOAA report from July, 2001

July 25, 2001

I walked 15.5 miles into Hanover.

tree outside of Hanover

The streams and springs are all drying up from this heat and lack of rain, yet I'm doing fine with my extra liter bottle giving me 3 liters to carry.

The Trail has changed so much having come off the alpine heights down to pastureland and valleys.  It is much warmer but the Trail is smoother and easier without the rocks and huge climbs and descents.

The Trail has become meadows, pastureland, and woods.

It was strange coming into Hanover.  The Trail came out of a forest, across a field (part of a baseball field) and right through a gas station in Hanover.  I quickly dropped my pack and got a Cliff Bar and cream soda.  I then proceeded to get a Subway sandwich and later my "White Blaze", a free milkshake from Ben & Jerry's for all thruhikers.

I'm staying at the Panarchy frat house down in the cellar.  It's a quiet place to sleep.  I visited the Tabard frat house and they were just getting a party started at 10:30 PM when I left.

Panarchy House in Hanover, NH

Talked to mom and dad at the DOC [Dartmouth Outing Club] place in Robinson Hall.

"And with regard to English conveniences,..."

"...they are also an unknown luxury in the United States, where there are only "little houses" five hundred paces from the house whenever possible.  That is very disagreeable in winter with the snow, and in summer when summer complaint, diarrhea, is quite a common ailment."
-Pierre S. du Pont de Nemours to his wife, Sept 28, 1816

July 24, 2001

I did a record 19 miles today in incredible hot, drought conditions.  I think I drank about six liters today.

Stayin' at Trapper John Shelter here. 

The Trapper John Shelter has the best privy.

I know it doesn't look like much, so let me explain.

1.  One of a few (if the only) privy with an armchair bolted onto it.
2.  Open air.  Enough said.
3.  The view that you cannot see.  This privy looked out onto a vast and beautiful valley.  Who needs a book?  Does your bathroom have a view like that?

Seriously, you must experience it! :-)

Peanut and Panama Red [see end of this post] are here.  It is nice to see them again since before Andover!

"The pastureland unfailingly assumes the guise..."

"...of a more vibrant hue when in existence on the yonder aspect of any delimiting barrier."
-bombastic proverb by Chuck

July 23, 2001

I climbed Moosilauke this morning.  It was my last Alpine Goodness above treeline.  It was hazy yet I enjoyed the cool breezes.  

Me on Moosilauke...random stranger napping on the right

There was a random gentleman napping on top of Moosilauke.  I arrived, snapped a timer-run-into-the-shot picture, breathed the goodness of above-treeline air, wolfed down a Snickers bar, and continued on down the mountain without the man every waking up.  I suppose I should have checked his pulse.

I believe, however, that he was a Nobo, or North-bounder.  This man had walked from Georgia to come nap on top of this New Hampshire peak.  Although he had traversed the demanding Smokey Mountain National Park, the Trail had spoiled him over the pasturelands of New Jersey and New York.

This man was not accustomed to climbing the demanding peaks of the Northeast.

Oh, would he have fun.

At the base on the south side I hit my first pastureland.  It was Wildflower Goodness.

Then I walked across our first real "flat" land for a total of 17 miles today to Ore Hill Shelter.  It's sorta nice to be back to the shelter and smelly privy routine.

We (Noble Savage and I) caught up to GI Jane and passed Bones and the New Yorkers.  The "P's",  Peanut and Panama Red, are about six miles ahead (I think).  I'm planning on a 19 mile day tomorrow.  Better get some sleep...

"Men hang out their signs..."

"...indicative of their respective trades; shoemakers hang out a gigantic shoe; jewelers a monster watch, and the dentist hangs out a gold tooth; but in the mountains of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there He makes men."
-Daniel Webster

July 22, 2001

Long day from Lonesome Lake Hut over the Kinsmans to Hwy 112 at Kinsman Notch.  Camping at site of old shelter.

On N. Kinsman I could see L. Lake, Franconia Ridge, Garfield, and "the cannon" (which has NH's "Old Man in the Mountain" on the far side.)  If the day wasn't quite so hazy we might have seen Mt. Washington.

Sadly, the "Old Man in the Mountain" which is featured on New Hampshire's quarter is no more.  It crumbled less than two years after I passed nearby on my thruhike.

link

It was hard crossing Mt. Wolf after tiring out on the Kinsmans and getting a late start but God gave me strength when I needed it.

"For with each dawn, she found new hope..."

"...that someday, her dreams of happiness would come true."
-Cinderella

July 21, 2001

I stopped in at N. Woodstock today.  Noble Savage and I got picked up by Rock Dancer, friend of Stuck Tive and Ladder (& Hook) and an AT-L member [this was an AT listserve back in the day where I got all my good advice about how to hike the Trail].  He said he would post a message for me thanking them.  I had a good call home and a good hike up to Lonesome Lake Hut where I got another work-for-stay.  Five: Speck Pond, Carter Notch, Lake of the Clouds, Galehead, Lonesome Lake.  Nice Croo of all girls.

me waving in Lonesome Lake

While I was swimming in this beautiful lake, I looked down and saw some dark shadows zipping around me.  Instinctual terror gripped me while I quickly made my way to shore.

As I got to shore, I noticed a little girl, likely one of those in the picture above, who was holding some such creature, the same kind that I had seen zipping around me.  She approached her parents excitedly to show off her discover.

For those that are squeamish...move on.  To those that aren't, then highlight the area between the arrows that follow to know what the creatures were:

------> they were leeches <------

Fortunately, nobody was harmed.

Franconia Ridge from Lonesome Lake

Meanwhile, all of the tourists and a few of us who were thruhikers enjoyed the sun setting over beautiful Franconia Ridge reflected off of Lonesome Lake.

We headed inside to the Hut.  Now, this being my fifth Hut, I had now memorized the routine of these places.  Before dinner, each group of tourists were subject to hearing the rules of the place.  Carry out all your trash and fold your sheets in the morning.  Several of the Hut "Croos" were creative and had come up with a Cinderella skit to present these rules in an entertaining manner.

Well, I and my fellow hikers had the whole skit memorized.  And, the regular Croo had became rather bored of the whole matter.

So...

....I was nominated to be Cinderella (perhaps it was the beard that helped me get the part?)

That's me in the green mop hair.

It was lots of fun and got lots of laughs!

It would be a great end to my trek through the Hut system of New Hampshire's Whites.

Sleeping tonight by the Lake under the stars.

"Although the effort required is significant..."

"...and the potential dangers are real, the scenic and natural rewards of making this visit are quite spectacular."
-New Hampshire Natural Heritage Bureau about the Franconia Ridge

July 20, 2001

This was a spectacular day with awesome views:

On Mt. Garfield

From Mt. Garfield I espied the wonderful Franconia Ridge:

Franconia Ridge seen from Mt. Garfield

Any self-respecting hiker loves them some Franconia ridge.  This is good hiking.  Beautiful views above treeline:

Mt. Lincoln from Lafayette

On Mt. Lafayette of the Franconia Ridge

Even this chipmunk was loving the alpine goodness:

Mountain Chipmunk

Looking back the way I've come:

Mt. Washington (tallest peak) from Franconia Ridge

"If the stars should appear but one night..."

"...every thousand years, how man would marvel and stare."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

July 19, 2001

Stayed at Galehead.

Galehead Hut, most remote of all the huts

The night I stayed at Galehead I saw the stars for the first time.  

I awoke at 12:30 am and walked out to the open and looked up.  A satellite startled me as it skittered overhead.  My hand reached out for shooting stars floating by like lightning bugs and my finger dipped into the Milky Way as it splashed across the sky.  

The Big Dipper smiled like a familiar friend as I looked at Scorpio in fear and as my eyes widened while they followed the Dragon's tail wind between the Dippers.

Praise left my lips for God the Creator as my mind tried to grasp the magnitude of the stars, as I realized that behind each star was a field of stars behind leaving a soft glow throughout the night so that no spot was uncovered.

As I wandered along to my sleeping spot my eyes glanced back to the Little Dipper and she winked at me knowing I'd be back.

"Highly curious and always on the lookout..."

"...Gray Jays eat just about anything...may even land on your hand to grab a raisin or peanut."
-the Cornell Lab of Ornithology

July 18, 2001

It was after hiking nine miles miles mostly above tree line, and over four of its larger peaks, that I discovered this warning about the White Mountain National Forest:

Not to worry.  It turned out to be a beautiful day:

I could even see the Cog Train creeping up the valley:

And New Hampshire's Washington Hotel (the white blob in the middle):

And my first encounter with the gregarious, northern bird called a Gray Jay (gray blob on the tiny tree):

This bird, a virtual greyscale version of the Blue Jay, behaved in what is typical of most Gray Jays in that he was very curious.  I was sitting at this overlook of the Zeacliff area, eating some supper, and the bird watched me the whole time.  Seemed very friendly, and won me over as a fan of this people-friendly bird.

"That there was a district in New England..."

"...containing mountain scenery superior to much that is yearly crowded by tourists in Europe."
-Anthony Trollope, beloved English novelist in his book North America

July 17, 2001

I started at Osgood Tentsite and climbed Madison, took a break at Madison Hut (ate lots of muffins and brownies left over from breakfast for $1), took the side trail up Mt. Adams, rand down Gulfside in the rain to the Jefferson Loop, and took it up to Mt. Jefferson, and then bck to the Gulfside Trail to the Mt. Clay loop over Mt. Clay, and right up Mt. Washington...

When I started the day I wasn't sure I'd go very far with a 3000' climb in 2.5 miles at the start of the day, but the $1 breakfast deal (works at any hut with breakfast leftovers!) gave me lots of energy for the day.

Madison Hut

on Madison, Washington in the background

me at Mt. Madison peak (left); at Adams peak (right)

When I got to the top of Adams, a boy scout troup was there saying they had separate groups climbing each of the Presidentials.  One group climbing Adams, another Madison, another Jefferson, and another Washington.  At that moment, I realized I would climb all of them today.

Some of the boy scouts asked how long I had been hiking (I mean, look at my "mountain man" look already!)  I said one month, and they looked at me as if I was from the moon.  So, I explained what a thruhiker is, and at least one boy got that look in his eye meaning one day he would be a thruhiker too.

side trail up and down Mt. Adams

I headed to bag my next peak, Mt. Jefferson.  

On the way I entered the ethereal, otherworldly land above treeline.  I can't describe how it feels to be above treeline, but once you have been there you always miss it.  It's beautiful in a way that's different from every other beautiful.  If you like LOTR, it is like you are in Lothlorien.  If you like Hunger Games it is like being in the arena without any traps, pods, or murderous tributes (maybe a moose or bear).  If you like Peter Pan, it is like being in Neverland.  If you like C.S. Lewis, it is like being in Narnia.  If you like Star Trek, it is like being on the away team.

The Presidentials are above treeline at its best.  Between Adams and Jefferson the Gulfside Trail was foggy with cairns of rocks topped with glowing quartz crystals.  Yes, glowing.  Somehow the sun reached through the fog and would catch hold of the quartz crystals and make them glow.

Told you it is cool.

Gulfside Trail with glowing crystal cairns

The fog thickened as I approached Jefferson's peak, and I encountered another of the boy scout troops. As I passed them along the steep final ascent, I heard one of the radios behind me say, "Remember that hiker you told us about?  crackle Yeah, the one hiking the whole Trail? crackle Well, he's here on Jefferson now and just passed us!"

I smiled at that.  That's when I realized I had my "trail legs", as they call it, because I marched right up Jefferson without much effort.

me on foggy peak of Jefferson

...right up Mt. Washington where I chilled, ate chili, a banana, chocolate-chip cookies, and root beer.

While on Mt. Washington's peak I called my mom and chatted a bit (there is a whole cafeteria, tourist center, and even a post office).  At the end of the phone call I stated I'd be going to Mt Washington obervatory's webcam.  My mom and I had pre-arranged this before I started the Trail, that she would look it up the day I was on top of Mt. Washington:

That's me up front.

Then down to Lakes of the Clouds [Hut] (beautiful and a nice "croo") where I got leftovers (free!) which was a vegetable calzone and [a side of] veggies.  I got full.

Lake of the Clouds Hut

The Hut had taken in more thruhikers than their "limit".  However, due to the sketchy weather that evening, they allowed us all to stay.  Some stayed on the kitchen floor, some on the dining room tables, and a few of us were a little braver...

Now, I'm sleeping (or getting ready to sleep) in the "Dungeon".  Dungeon, is no misnomer.  It is an 8x8 room with two triple bunks, concrete walls, damp floor, only accessible from outside, and in the basement.  Fun.