"You better cut the pizza in four pieces..."

"...because I'm not hungry enough to eat six." -Yogi Berra

August 29, 2001

24 miles to 501 Shelter by 5:30 PM!!  Motivation was pizza.

The 501 Shelter

501 is an enclosed cabin with sky roof - best shelter so far.  

I had the whole shelter to myself that night.  It would be a nice shelter to share with a bunch of friends, like at the Sugarloaf Ski Resort Lodge, but it was also nice to spread my stuff all over and have a night of peace.

It is located at a family's house on PA501, so you can order pizza delivery.  I ate a whole medium pizza with bacon and mushrooms and two cokes.

"The filet mignon is from the small end..."

"...of the tenderloin area of the animal, which is non-weight bearing and not toughened by exercise, resulting in extremely tender meat."  -Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child

August 28, 2001

To Port Clinton.

Stayed in hostel and ate a filet mignon [at a nearby restaurant].

Splurge!

View north of Port Clinton

Port Clinton is on the Schuylkill River and used to send coal from nearby coal towns to Philadelphia (or somewhere along the river).  

Now, there is only a population of 288.

"In matters of style, swim with the current;..."

"...in matters of principle, stand like a rock."
-Thomas Jefferson

August 27, 2001

Along the route today was Bear Rocks:

Bear Rocks formation

This is supposedly part of the Tuscarora Formation, a rock found along the Appalachian Mountains that is the hardest rock found in the region, thus resistant to erosion, and therefore is often found exposed along the ridges of these mountains.

So, I loved the exposed ridges along the AT, probably one of the main features that most hikers will say they love.

However, I must say PA was a low point in my hike, and many of my fellow SOBOs (South Bounders) agreed they disliked it.  Exhibit 1: in the Bear Rocks picture above is some graffiti all over the face of the rock.  This hardly ever happened anywhere else along the AT, especially not in the pristine state of Maine (where over hundreds of miles of hiking I never saw one piece of litter).

Exhibit 2: the rocks.  Rocks everywhere.  You don't really walk through Pennsylvania, you stumble through it.

Traveled to Eckville Shelter.

Eckville Shelter

Eckville Shelter is taken care of by a man named "Lazee".  I never met him because I got there late and ended up pitching my tent on the wooden platform in the yard.

I should have been more brave and explored though, because apparently inside the six-bed cabin is a flush toilet, solar shower, and honor system sodas.

Oh well, can't win them all.  Saving up for my good experience at 501 Shelter...

"Every creature is better alive than dead..."

"...men and moose and pine trees, and he who understands it aright will rather preserve its life than destroy it." - Henry David Thoreau

August 26, 2001

23.5 miles today.  I feel pretty good, too!

I went over the Blue Mountain ridge where Palmerton's zinc smeltering had devestated everything. 

Devastation due to zinc smeltering industry (an EPA Superfund site)

I felt like I was walking through a desert with all the dead trees and rocks.

Felt like hiking through the Middle East 

It was very hot and after a 16-mile stretch without water.  

There were a few springs marked on the map, but they were dry.  Then, as you enter the EPA Superfund site shown above, there is a sign that says: "We highly recommend you do not drink the water unless you like growing appendages." (well, something like that...).  So, I was getting low on water and a bit parched.

Getting thirsty!

There was a surprising rock climb down into Lehigh Gap, after about a hundred miles of nothing but flat.

Photo from here

I finally found a spring just as I drank my last water, but I found it swarmed by yellow jackets!!

I was mad.

As I approached the spring I was excited about a possible Trail Angel situation going on, because it looked like someone had left cans of soda (and we are talking about Coke and Sprite, not a Sam's Club knockoff brand here) in the spring to get ice cold.  My parched lips smacked invitingly!

And then as I approached I noticed all of the cans were empty, and thrown as clumps of litter into the usually pristine spring, and attracting 53 yellow jackets to swarm and prevent me from getting water.

I was mad.

After throwing rocks at them [to try to kill all 53 yellow jackets one at a time...], throwing a bottle tied to a string [to try to fill it with water from a distance], and other failed ideas, I finally put on all my clothes: rain pants, jacket, bug net, all tucked in [and it being about 90 degrees out]  and got my water.

"780 million people lack access to..."

"...an improved water source; approximately one in nine people."
-WHO/UNICEF Joint Monitoring Programme for Water Supply and Sanitation (2012 update)

August 25, 2001

We had to walk 0.5 miles, one way, just to get water!

Most of the time, water is found right on the Trail, from a stream crossing it, or from a spring bubbling close by.  Sometimes, especially at shelters were the water source needs to be a bit away from normal human wastes, it is only a few hundred feet away.

We get so used to water being within reach.

Of course, the water I was complaining about was at the bottom of a mountain, after hiking about 15 - 20 miles.  Not to mention then having to lug a few liters of water and a 20-pound pack 0.5 miles back up the mountain.

Still, at least there was water...

Beautiful views from the ridge of Delaware Water Gap (too bad there had to be an interstate).

Delaware River Bridge

"Hunger is the best..."

"...sauce in the world."
-Cervantes in Don Quixote

August 24, 2001

Into the Delaware Water Gap.  

Delaware Water Gap

Staying at the Church of the Mountain Hostel.  

I remember eating at a little restaurant near the hostel that night.  After two months of rice, peanut butter, candy bars, and oatmeal I was ready for a real meal.  I ordered one of the best Filet Mignons I have ever had (okay, so probably the only one I've ever had...but it was incredible!)

I crossed over the DWG bridge which is almost a mile long!  It took forever to cross it, but it was fun 'cause I made all the trucks honk, and a white crane was flying around in the Delaware River below.

"The best thing one can do when it's raining..."

"...is to let it rain."
-Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

August 23, 2001

Rained all day.  Twenty-one miles.

Stayed @ Mohican Outdoor Center cabin with Beat, Twinkles, and Giggles.

I barely remembered the MOC, but then I remembered arriving there soaking wet in the dark.  It was so nice to have a four-walled shelter that night because we were all cold and wet.  So nice to dry off and sleep in a warm bed!

There was enough of a break in the rain to get this beautiful picture of the New Jersey countryside:

"With malice toward none, with charity for all,..."

"...with firmness in the right as God gives us to see the right,
lets us strive on to finish the work we are in,
to bind up the nation's wounds,
to care for him who shall have borne the battle,
and for his widow and his orphan,
to do all which may achieve and cherish
a lasting peace among ourselves
and with all nations."
-Abraham Lincoln, 2nd inaugural address, March 4, 1865

August 22, 2001

I saw lots of deer and turkeys today.

I also saw the High Point Monument of NJ, marking the highest spot in the state at 1,803 feet.  One would wonder why such a measly elevation would deserve such an obelisk, but the monument was built in 1930 to commemorate those who had fought in wars and not come home.

Not the Washington Monument...it is the High Point Monument, NJ

The monument's park was almost closed due to budget battles, but veterans spoke out against the closing and won the right to keep it open.

I met some Ukrainians on top of Sunrise Mountain.  It was cool talking with them, and they gave me a tuna sandwich, raisins, and an apple.

Myself and two Ukrainians

Although I didn't stay there, it is another good example of what an Appalachian Trail shelter looks like:

High Point Shelter, NJ

"Some people finish the Trail..."

"...but never experience it." -Desperado

August 21, 2001

Hiked with Motorcycle Mama to the Secret Shelter.  It has two shelters, a privy, warm shower, and two donkeys.

New Jersey's "Secret Shelter"

Twinkle Toes, Marge, and Beat came along shortly after as well, so we had a fun evening just enjoying the great weather, watching the donkeys, and doing general over-all relaxing.

Desperado [this guy is a Trail legend!] showed up and gave out some soda, talked about the Trail, and gave advice.  Great guy.  There is Trail Magic all up and down NJ because of him.

Unfortunately, it appears that Desperado was murdered in June of 2012.  Many thruhikers remember his unselfish, giving nature.  He is missed by many.  RIP.

Some ground hogs and wild turkeys showed up.  Also, some deer came and ate apples.

This was one of my favorite shelters, mostly because of Desperado showing up, but also because it is in such a peaceful area with lots of wildlife around.  Having a shower there is cool too, but for some reason I didn't even use it.  I had just had a shower the day before, right?

At the Secret Shelter

"Will is to grace..."

"...as the horse is to the rider."
-Saint Augustine

August 20, 2001

Zero at the Episcopal Church.

I got to IM a lot of youth back in Blacksburg.  That rocked.  

Speaking of Instant Messaging, these were the days that most people use either IRC Chat or AOL IM.  I didn't own a cell phone yet (that would come after I finished the AT).  I thought it would be cool to own a laptop, but it just didn't seem financially responsible over getting a desktop.  Most people probably used MySpace rather than Facebook.

Researched Americorp.  The ones I want to apply for are:

1. New River Community Action, Inc. in Radford
2. Total Action Against Poverty (TAP) in Roanoke
3. SW Virginia Second Harvest in Roanoke

My plan at this point was to keep the lifestyle of living cheaply (such as one lives on the Trail) and do ministry, whether through Americorp, churches, or Habitat for Humanity.  I would end up getting back into teaching by subbing at Blacksburg Middle School.

"Then Jesus said, 'Let's go off by ourselves..."

"...to a quiet place and rest awhile.'" -Mark 6:31a (NLT)

August 19, 2001

Hiked into Vernon, NJ.  

I enjoyed hiking through beautiful and interesting New York, but New Jersey was just fun and delicious.



I went to a farm right by the road (they sell ice cream, fruit, plants, etc.)  I got two large ice cream cones, two peaches, and a Dr. Pepper.  

For some reason (maybe it's obvious), when hiking I always craved fat (ice cream) and sodium (soda).  Fresh fruit was a big plus as well, because you just can't carry fruit very long in a backpack.

This was a delicious stop.

Then hitched into Vernon to the Episcopal Church.

Slept in the Episcopal Church and stayed the next day as well.  It was a very peaceful place with kind people.

"You should not see the desert as simply a faraway place of little rain..."

"...There are many forms of thirst." -William Langewiesche

August 18, 2001

Very dry.  Fortunately Trail Angels are leaving water at roadsides.

It is finally too dry.  A lot of springs are not flowing now, making it hard to keep hydrated.

I thought for sure that Fitzgerald Falls between Mombasha High Point and Lakes Road in New York would be at least trickling:

from here

It was dry.

Thanks to New Yorkers all was not lost though.  I came to Lakes Road and someone had set up a sign saying to walk to their nearby house and use their hose.

I filled up my bottles and drank a gallon.

As I got ready to make the 1.5 mile jaunt to the Wildcat Shelter for the night some weekend hikers were coming the other way from that direction.  I asked if they knew if the shelter's spring was dry or not, to which they replied that it was dry.

However, when I arrived there was a decent mud puddle.  Those weekend hikers...don't they know how to filter water out of mud!?

Hah, there was plenty to make supper and add another quart to my stash.

"Zoo animals are ambassadors..."

"...for their cousins in the wild." -Jack Hanna

August 17, 2001

A very interesting day!  I went over the beautiful Bear Mountain Bridge...

Bear Mountain Bridge crossing the Hudson River

...and into the zoo [Trailside Museum and Zoo].  They had all the animals from the Trail in the zoo.

The AT literally goes through the zoo!

One of five black bears I would see on the AT...does it count if it's in a cage?

Although I would have to go around several beaver-made ponds, and cross a few beaver dams, I never saw one except here in the Trailside Zoo:

Trailside Zoo beaver

After leaving the zoo, I came across one more animal for the day:

Probably a black Rat Black Snake (thanks, Dad!)

Fortunately, I saw him crossing the log just before I was about to step on it!

At Tiorati Circle I met 3 new Southbounders...Twinklefeet, Giggles, and Beat who started June 1st.  They had gotten a pizza delivered so I helped them eat it.  Ed [who I had been hiking with] got a ride to Campmor so he is a little behind but should catch up soon.

Little did I know that I would finish the Trail with Twinklefeet, Giggles, and Beat, but never see Ed again.  Twinklefeet (Mac) and Giggles (Marge) were dating and had picked up Beat (Jason) along the way.  I became a fourth part of the group until we hit the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia.

"For it is in giving..."

"...that we receive." -St. Francis of Assisi

August 16, 2001

I'm at Graymoor Friary.  Very good dinner.  Yum!

They sat us down at a huge table in a dining hall fit for a story like Beowulf.  They put a full setting with extra forks for salads, desert, etc. and fed us a delicious meal.  This was all just to bless us.

We got a tour by the Fransiscan Friar of the center.  The first Friary and chapel was built around 1900.  Now, it's much bigger!

Hanging out with the Friars at the Friary's pavilion

The tour was excellent, and I thought much of it interesting of how the original friars lived and the marble alter from the St. Francis chapel in Italy.  Neato.

When a railroad was built along the Hudson River nearby, many men came along looking for shelter.  All the friars had to share at that point was a chicken coop which became known as St. Christopher's Inn.  I suppose the tradition continues with AT hikers!

The altar from the chapel was made in Florence, Italy and was at the St. Francis chapel there until it was given to the Graymoor Friary, arriving in 16 crates.  At the time the marble altar cost the same amount it cost to build the chapel.

Tomorrow: Surrounded by Animals!

"The Adirondack lean-to was developed by guides of the region...'

"...as convenient camp to house hunting and fishing parties.  The earliest of shelters....were quickly and crudely built and although they offered shelter from the elements, they could not have been very comfortable." -History of Adirondack Lean-tos

August 15, 2001

Stayed at RPH Cabin.  RPH: Ralph's Peak Hiker.  It is excellent with bunks and concrete block walls.  They had to knock out one wall to meet AT shelter building codes.  Okay.

RPH Shelter (from here)

New York is turning out to be a top-notch state to hike through!  Wait until you see where I end up tomorrow: marble altars, a meal served, and an order going back to 1209 AD...